| The
Word's Out Outdoor
Dining in Austin
by Ann Guidry
Photography by
Barton Wilder Custom Images
Sometimes it feels like Austin
is the center of the universe. We're blessed with a relatively temperate
climate and an abundance of lakes, rivers and rolling hills that
make an enormous playground out of the city and surrounding areas.
Live music floats on the air like so much background noise and food
is serious entertainment. Austin-minded restaurateurs that combine
at least two of these elements-the great outdoors and thoughtful
food-have a distinct edge over competitors who don't. Give any good
Austinite a chance to loll on a patio and they'll likely drop what
they're doing to get to it. Give them reasonably priced drinks and
a plateful of good food and you've got a customer for life. Throw
in some music and you may just have to kick them out. Here's a short
list of some of the places that happily indulge your Austin-tatious
leanings.
Hula Hut
3826 Lake Austin Blvd.
512-476-4852
With lake and city access, Hula
Hut just might be Austin's ultimate outdoor dining destination.
Located on Lake Austin, this Chuy's with Polynesian flair has one
indoor and two outdoor bars, a deck that seats up to two hundred
people and the kind of fresh, inventive food that's made the Comida
Deluxe family of restaurants (Chuy's, Hula Hut, and Shady Grove
among them) so wildly successful.

General manager Tim Johnson
says, "In the winter, people forget about the lake. That's
why we make the food so good. By focusing on the food, we get folks
addicted. They think, 'I gotta have those Mexonesian Shrimp Flautas'
or Tubular Tacos or whatever." When the cold wind blows and
the Mango-Poblano Chile Quesadilla craving hits, Hula Hut has you-and
their deck-covered. Carpeted decking, space heaters and plastic
wall flaps keep the cold out so diners can enjoy a spectacular view
of the lake year round.
And when the weather warms?
The flaps and carpet give way to lake breezes, sunshine and lots
and lots of grateful boaters and boater wannabes. Mexican oilcloth-covered
tables arranged along the perimeter of what's known as the Palapa
Deck overlook the Hut's own boat dock. Sun-lovers can soak up the
rays while they sip a Texas Martini or one of the restaurant's other
specialty drinks. The deck's thatch-covered umbrellas, unlike the
surfboards and tiki-flavored tchotchkes, are more than just tropical
eye candy. They also provide much-needed shade when the temperature
climbs past ninety degrees. Happy hour specials from 3:30pm to 7:30pm
Monday through Friday include one dollar off Margaritas and frozen
Mai Tais and free chips and mango-pineapple salsa.
With three bars, well-mixed
libations and a lake location, you might think drinkers would favor
the place over diners. Not so. "Our numbers bear out seventy
percent food to thirty percent liquor sales," says Johnson.
"We consider ourselves a food company whose motto is 'fresh
is best.'" To back up that claim he reports that fish is delivered
six days a week, produce arrives daily and homemade flour and corn
tortillas are made-in full view of diners-morning until night. Macadamia-crusted
Mahi Mahi is a favorite as are the shrimp and spinach, chicken and
guacamole, steak or grilled veggie Tubular Tacos. Match them with
a Grass Skirt, a swirl of Coco Rum, melon liqueur and pineapple
juice, and you've got summertime all wrapped up-whatever the season.
Moonshine Patio Bar &
Grill
303 Red River St.
512-236-9599
Housed in the brilliantly restored
old Waterloo Compound, Moonshine followed fabled Emilia's with what,
at the time, seemed an unlikely theme: upscale comfort food. Chef
Larry Perdido and fellow proprietors Chuck Smith, Greg Schmurr and
Buckner Hightower took their cues from the structure and its history
and put together an original menu that's been hitting pitch-perfect
notes from the get-go.
Perdido's consistently good,
highfalutin American standards (silky baked macaroni with pimento
cheese and a bacon gratin, for instance) appeal to regular folk,
presidential types and everyone in between. Case in point: Tennis
sensation Andy Roddick is a return customer who brings twenty or
so of his closest friends to dine in the adjoining Sunday House,
the same private dining room in which Jenna Bush (yes, that Jenna
Bush) held her college graduation dinner.

The menu takes its inspiration
from two outdoor seating areas, a rustically elegant interior marked
by rough-cut cedar beams, limestone walls, plank floors, and a decidedly
relaxed ambiance. The place has a breezy quality to it, probably
due to the fact that most of the restaurant seating is out of doors.
Diners may sit on the veranda deck or the patio bar and sip patio
cocktails like the Harvest Moon Tea or Hard Lemonade (a twist on
the Mojito), or indulge in starters like Corn Dog Shrimp, skewered
jumbo gulf shrimp coated in a slightly sweet cornmeal batter that's
fried and served with blueberry and honey mustard.
Entrées are generously
portioned and inexpensive and come with a daily vegetable and your
choice of sides. Like the previously mentioned baked macaroni, the
sides tend to depart slightly from their humble beginnings. Golden
mashed potatoes are accented with roasted garlic and butter, and
griddled polenta is elevated by hints of Parmesan and fresh herbs.
Happy hour is 3:30pm to 6:30pm
Monday through Friday and includes half-price appetizers and $4
select cocktails, but it's Moonshine's Sunday Brunch that really
packs them in. For $12.95, you can linger over a sumptuous buffet
and $3 Mimosas and Bloody Marys.
Because the patios seat almost
twice as many as the indoor dining areas, careful attention is to
countering the elements. In true Moonshine style, the Texas weather
is managed with casual grace. Partner Chuck Smith says, "On
the veranda deck we set up a marquis tent and forced air heating
so that people can enjoy the outdoors, even in winter. The tent
actually makes it kind of festive." There's a fireplace in
the patio bar and a copper fire pit set up on the open-air walkway.
They burn Simple Fire, a Balcones Recycling product that's made
of compressed paper remnants, because it burns so clean and hot.
"During the summer," Smith says, "We use big, water-cooled
fans-the kind used on the sidelines of football fields-to keep everyone
comfortable." That's not how they did it in the old days, but
no matter. An afternoon or moonlit evening spent on one of Moonshine's
patios might just transport you, if briefly, to days gone by.
Rocco's Grill
612 W. Sixth St.
512-480-5920
Because Rocco's Grill on Sixth
opened just in time for Thanksgiving, the brand new baby sister
to Rocco's in Lakeway has only recently thrown a grand opening party
for their rooftop bar. If the success of the veranda at Lakeway
is any indication, Rocco's rooftop should be one of downtown's most
happening spots. Afraid of heights? You can still enjoy dining al
fresco in the alleyway piazza, a charming alternative to the multi-level
rooftop where skyline views and Momo's tunes (the bar above Katz's
next door hosts live bands just about every night) coax diners and
drinkers to stop and stay a while. "People don't know we're
up here yet," says Ally Piazza, daughter of Linda Piazza and
the restaurant's namesake, Rockey Piazza. "That's why we have
the palm trees," she says, pointing to the stylized palm-shaped
lights strategically placed around the perimeter of the space.
Once word gets out, space along
the bank of east-facing barstools will be at a premium during sunset.
This is the best spot to take in the spectacular colors of the sun's
waning rays being reflected off the buildings of downtown. Rocco's
happy hour, 3pm to 7pm Monday through Friday and all day Sunday,
includes special appetizers like mini-meatball and vegetarian calzones,
cheese pizza made with homemade pizza dough and fried oysters topped
with a lemon butter chardonnay sauce served with marinara. Specialty
house drinks include the Bellini, a peachy, slushy summertime favorite,
as well as an amusing list of Martinis that include the U.T.-tini
and German Chocolate Cake Martini. Though the emphasis is on the
bar, full meals are also served on the roof. "We can accommodate
you, no matter where you sit," says Piazza.
Rocco's menu is comprised of
Linda's and other family recipes, including the once-secret recipe
bread (made fresh twice daily on-site) that was a gift from a cousin.
A family affair in every sense, Ally takes care of special events
and catering, sister Ani handles advertising and public relations,
and brother Rocco II pitches in whenever he can break away from
medical school. The family spirit spills over to Rockey's clients
whom Ally says, "My dad loves to get to know." So the
next time you find yourself on his rooftop patio, basking in the
glow of the setting sun, don't be surprised if Rockey comes by to
shake your hand and see if he can make you any happier.
Shoal Creek Saloon
909 N. Lamar Blvd.
512-474-0805
The giant New Orleans Saints
helmet on the roof of Shoal Creek Saloon gives patrons and passersby
a hint of what the establishment is all about. Inside, the wood-paneled
walls are covered with Saints pennants, neon beer signs and signed
photos of athletic heroes. Water skis adorn the ceiling and the
floor is cool cement. The stereo plays the Blues, but you can only
hear that during off hours. The televisions-eighteen in all-attest
to the fact that people come to eat, drink and watch the game.

Separating the main dining room
from the back patio is a garage door that, when raised, opens the
whole space up to tranquil views of Shoal Creek and surrounding
Duncan Park. Bud George, head chef and general manager, explains
that renovations to the patio are ongoing, that, as funds have allowed,
the space has gone from an open area with umbrellas to the versatile,
Texas weather-friendly space you see today. The latest innovation
is the sunlight reflective cushion installed over the patio roof.
Fans circulate summer air and plastic walls can be raised and lowered
depending on the temperature. Space heaters are brought out on the
chilly days so the view can be enjoyed year round.
George honed his skills in kitchens
in and around Louisiana before he made it to Shoal Creek, and it
shows. The menu is rife with Cajun, Creole and traditional southern
favorites. They've got peel-and-eat shrimp to start as well as boudin-and-garlic
soup. Mains include crawfish étoufée; duck, chicken-and-sausage
gumbo; fried catfish, oysters and shrimp; Po-boys and a killer Muffaletta.
There's a lunch buffet on Wednesdays and Fridays as well as your
choice of all-you-can-eat catfish or a six-piece catfish basket.
On Tuesdays, George lovingly prepares an ever-rotating selection
of fresh fish not normally found on their daily menu such as Lake
Victoria Perch or Mahi Mahi. Everything is made from scratch and
is usually borne from a base of The Trinity (onion, celery and green
pepper) plus garlic. The saloon sells more food than beer and wine
("We're a grown-up place. No Jell-O shots here.") and
tends to cater to legislative types as well as sports fans. No matter
your occupation or team affiliation, the patio at Shoal Creek Saloon
is your relaxation destination.
Tree House Italian Grill
2201 College Ave.
512-443-4200
When asked to describe the sort
of experience diners can expect to have at his restaurant, Tree
House Italian Grill owner Fred Bakhshi points to the cover of his
menu. There, in lavish scroll, is the quote, "A tree house
is the threshold between reality and fantasy." The short answer
then is that Tree House clients are treated to a respite from the
everyday where romance-in every sense of the word-rules.
When restaurateur Bahkshi was
led to the triangle of land just off South Congress, where a history-rich
building was overshadowed by a grand seven-hundred-year-old oak
tree, he knew just what he wanted to do with the place. In the spot
that was once called "The Gateway to Austin" back when
Congress was the Chisholm Trail, and, years later, home of The Pig
Stand, one of Texas' first carhop eateries, Bakhshi brought his
dream to life under the branches of that stately oak.
The restaurant's dimly lit interior,
with its hand painted frescos, white tablecloths, candlelight and
piped music straight out of Big Night, couldn't be more inviting.
But the best seating is on the patio-the establishment's undisputed
main attraction. Tables are arranged under the antique oak, whose
branches are hung with twinkle lights. The trickling sound of a
water feature provides a relaxing ambiance while the patio's winding
paths accented by gentle landscaping invite diners to wander after
dinner.
"Because South Austinites
love music, we feature Susanna Sharpe every Friday night when the
weather's nice," Bahkshi says. And when it's not so nice? The
patio is covered by a tent and warmed with space heaters in the
colder months and is naturally shaded by the majestic oak when temperatures
soar.
Sit outside and enjoy a glass
of wine and antipasti, or do it up with an entire traditional Italian
meal. "We serve true Italian food," says the owner. "This
isn't one of those places that feels like it has to compete with
other chefs or reinvent old recipes." The grill turns out fresh
fish, filet mignon and veal five ways, including Picatta and Saltimbocca.
Pastas come in traditional and not-so-traditional varieties-huge,
moderately priced portions to be sure-of which Chicken Casanova
and Crawfish Michelangelo are highlights. Appetizers include the
aforementioned antipasti platter as well as escargot, fried calamari
and homemade minestrone soup. The Tree House makes its coffee from
freshly ground whole beans and uses only loose leaf for its teas
and the very latest cappuccino machine for the steam-heated drink
of your choice. Pair that with an espresso-laced tiramisu at dinner's
end and you'll see the line between reality and fantasy start to
blur.
The Y Restaurant and Bar
7720 W. US Highway 71
512-394-0220
John Laney, managing partner
of The Y Bar and Restaurant in Oak Hill, has a deep appreciation
for what he refers to as "Hill Country attitude." His
own demeanor-laid back, gracious and hard working-mirrors that of
his clientele, folks without pretension who appreciate the finer
things in life. To keep them happy, he makes sure that the Y strikes
a perfect balance between casual and refined, most notably on the
patio. This is where the elegance of the main dining room gives
way to a less sophisticated, more relaxed ambiance. "I think
of it as leaving Hyde Park for South Austin," Laney says. "I've
always wanted to install a rack by the door where people can leave
their ties."
Here, on the banks of Williamson
Creek, the all-weather patio features a full outdoor bar and seating
for up to a hundred people. Retractable walls and space heaters
warm the patio in the winter while ceiling fans keep the air moving
in the summer. Happy hour (or "Tea Time" in Y-ese) is
3pm to 7pm Monday through Friday and comes with specially priced
appetizers (southwestern egg rolls, anyone?) and drink specials,
but that's just one of many reasons to come out. The restaurant
also hosts a Jazz Sunday Brunch and Vintner Dinners showcasing select
winemakers and culinary treasures from Texas.
Because the Hill Country attitude
includes a love of good music as well as good food, the Y patio
stages live entertainment five days a week. Y pastry chef and singer-songwriter
Jenni Lord books live acts to play the Y's Wednesday night Songwriters
Night; Thursday night Evening of Wine, Women, Food & Song featuring
"Texas wines, female vocalists, wild game and other Texas cuisine;"
and Friday night Y Not the Friday Blues Night. Jazz and torch have
a place at the Y as well, just not on the patio.
"There are two groups of
people out here," Laney says. "We try to make them both
happy." The Y menu bears that claim out by including chicken-fried
venison, honey ancho rotisserie duck and peg leg quail alongside
vegetarian offerings of herb polenta cakes and black bean tamales.
Elegantly rustic sides like roasted pepper five-cheese macaroni,
ratatouille, and gorgonzola mashed potatoes hint at the range explored
by the kitchen. Beloved chef Andre Lejeune cuts certified Angus
beef in-house, uses as much locally grown produce as he can get
(much of it from Patti and Harley Clark Farms of Dripping Springs)
and prepares only fresh fish that's flown in daily. With an outdoor
seating area that rivals the size of the elegant dining areas inside
the certified green building, the patio at The Y Restaurant and
Bar is the perfect place to kick off-or wind out-a day in the Hill
Country.
Because outdoor activities are
almost exclusively recreational and because Austinites tend to spend
most of their precious free time outside, we as a city have come
to be defined by our love of kicking back and relaxing. That may
be why patio dining is so prevalent. We understand that an hour
lunch break taken on a veranda is like a mini-vacation, that bathing
in the light of the setting sun is simply the best way to spend
happy hour, and that there's nothing quite like dining among twinkling
lights and cool night breezes under a canopy of stars. Whether you're
looking for upscale or down home, live music or sports, beer or
cocktails, upstairs or creekside, American or Mexonesian, there's
an Austin restaurant that caters to your need for all that-and a
little fresh air.
Ann Guidry's love of food
is rivaled only by her love of the outdoors. She'd get a lot more
work done if she could just stay inside and stop thinking about
what she's going to eat next. You may e-mail Ann at aguidry@goodlifemag.com.
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