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Everyone
knows there are plenty of great restaurants in Austin. Some
have been around forever and some are fairly new on the scene.
Whether a restaurant is new to you or one of your favorites,
wouldn't it be great to know what other people are
eating
there, what their favorite dish is? What if you could have
the same lamb chops that Broadway star Tommy Tune raves about?
Or if you could have the Thai stir-fry that hooked actress
Drew Barrymore? Or just know what's most popular thing on
the menu and why? Well, you can. Read on and learn about some
of Austin's best restaurant's best dishes, as told by chefs,
owners, and managers across town. We couldn't cover them all;
these are just some of the standouts. Get ready to have your
appetite aroused.
Hyde
Park Bar & Grill's Fries
This
one's easy. If you don't know the signature dish at Hyde Park
Bar & Grill, you've probably never eaten there. Or seen
the giant French fries on the giant fork out front.
"Oh,
it's the fries, easy," says manager Keith Pennington.
"They were developed when Bick Brown (the owner) first
opened the place back in 1982. They wanted something different,
to set them apart
One of his friends taught him to make
these fries. The heritage is that they came from Cajun-style
cooking. They are dipped in buttermilk and rolled in peppered
flour. Of course, we fry them in peanut oil, which gives them
that much more flavor than your standard French fry. Peanut
oil is healthier, a little lower in fat, and it's just the
best oil to fry with."
The
crunchy, crispy, delicious wonders are served with a tangy,
spicy dipping sauce known as Hyde Park sauce. But this wasn't
always the case.
"The
fries were originally served with a jalapeno jelly years ago.
Then they came up with this sauce that was supposed to go
with the fried chicken-breast sandwich. And lo and behold,
people started dipping their fries in that and asking for
it every time they got fries
The jalapeno jelly kind
of went by the wayside, so we decided to just stick with the
Hyde Park sauce," Pennington says.
Now,
they go through five hundred pounds of potatoes and about
ten gallons of sauce per day to keep Austin diners happy with
those fries they love so much. People have asked (begged)
the restaurant to ship the dish FedEx but it's just not doable.
Austin is the only place you can get them. One more thing
to love about this city.
Warm
Spinach Salad at Starlite
If
you never thought of a salad or spinach as comfort food, get
ready tochange your mind. The mood altering concoction of
cheese, potatoes, spinach, and egg at Starlite is enough to
make a believer out of anyone.
Michael
Terrazas, co-owner and manager, describes the multilayered
delight.
"We
start off with roasted Yukon Gold potatoes. They are cubed
finely and we roast them with just a little salt and olive
oil. Then we melt some Cambozola blue cheese, which is a cross
between an Italian Gorgonzola and a French Camembert, it's
a blue-veined cheese, soft ripened. Then we sauté some
spinach in a bacon vinaigrette with some grape tomatoes. We
put that on top with some crumbled egg yolk."
Not
only is it wildly popular, it's the only dish on the constantly
rotating menu that hasn't changed since the restaurant opened
two years ago. The salty, creamy cheese contrasts nicely with
the bacon vinaigrette, which is sweet and tangy. The hearty
salad works well as an appetizer or light main course. Terrazas
thinks its appeal is simple and basic.
"It's
pretty complex in flavor with everything going on, as well
as the textures. You've got the sautéed spinach that's
a very earthy flavor and when it sautées down it's
not crunchy any longer but it still has the bite of a good
green. Of course, the potatoes and the cheese (make it) almost
like a baked potato, all creamy and hearty. The grape tomatoes
are the smallest tomatoes and they are just barely heated
in the sauté pan so they just burst (in your mouth).
As innovative as it is, it still feels like comfort food to
people," says Terrazas.
Phuket
Wonder at Satay
That's
pronounced "poo ket," in case you are wondering.
This spicy dish is named for the famous island resort in southern
Thailand where the dish is popular. In Phuket, and throughout
Thailand, it's known as Pad Prik King, according to Satay
owner Foo Swasdee. The original dish is stir-fried long bean
with spicy chili sauce and fried pork rind. Swasdee made some
changes.
"Pad
Prik King, originally, with the fried pork rinds, was something
I didn't eat because it's so fattening. So, I took the recipe
and modified it. Here, we don't have long bean all the time
so I use green beans. I make my own chili paste and instead
of using pork rinds, I just use lots and lots of garlic. I
named it Phuket, because it comes from the south of Thailand,
and Wonder, so people would ask what it is," she says.
The
fresh green beans are sautéed with the pre-mixed roasted
chili paste, fresh chilies, the aforementioned garlic, and
kaffir lime leaf. A small amount of red bell pepper, just
for color, according to Swasdee, and the diner's choice of
meat, shrimp or tofu is added. The result is a fresh, richly
flavored dish that vegetarians and carnivores both enjoy.
It sounds hot but it's fairly mild by Thai standards, though
you can certainly ask them to crank up the heat.
In
addition to one local restaurant critic, who loves the dish
but hates the name, actress Drew Barrymore is a fan of the
entrée. Apparently, Barrymore came into the restaurant
in 2001 and tried Phuket Wonder. The staff knew she was famous
but didn't know who she was. Then a few days later she had
someone pick up two orders to go. She didn't know the name,
just that it was spicy green beans with a funny name. She
told them it was for Drew. Swasdee and her staff put it together
when Barrymore mentioned Satay in a magazine interview later.
If you want it like Drew, order it with shrimp. The other
choices are tofu, beef, chicken, or pork. No matter what meat
you choose, one bite and you'll know why so many people love
it.
Lamb
Chops at Chez Zee
Sarah
Bown, manager and daughter of owner Sharon Watkins, says the
fried dill pickles get people talking but the lamb chops are
really the standout dish at Chez Zee. The lamb chops are marinated
in rosemary balsamic vinaigrette, then grilled and served
with apricot chutney accompanied by horseradish mashed potatoes
and grilled asparagus.
"Everyone
loves it, even people who don't normally eat lamb. The word
has gotten around that even if you don't eat lamb, you have
to try these," says Bown. "We have people who rave
about them. We only serve them on Friday and Saturday nights
but we're thinking about adding them (to the regular menu)
because people are so crazy for them."
Recently,
a group gathered at Chez Zee to celebrate the birthday of
Ruth Denney, well-known drama teacher (High School for the
Performing Arts in Houston, University of Texas) who taught
both Broadway star Tommy Tune and Chez Zee owner Sharon Watkins,
as well as actresses Jaclyn Smith and Sandy Duncan. At the
birthday lunch, Tune was convinced to try the lamb even though
he thought he wanted something else.
According
to Bown, "Tommy Tune said the lamb was better than any
he ever had in New York City. He said it was really great
and he was going to tell all his friends in New York to come
here and taste the lamb."
Mom
Watkins added this tidbit about the fried pickles.
"Elizabeth
Montgomery (of Bewitched fame) loved the fried dill pickles.
She called me one day and said 'I'm trying to cook these things.
It can't be hard. How do you do this?'"
Watkins
eventually determined that a home kitchen just wasn't able
to maintain the high heat needed to cook the pickles before
they turned to mush. So, if you want fried dill pickles, go
to Chez Zee, don't try it at home.
Sea
Bass at Bistro 88
Bistro
88 is the Euro-Asian wonder tucked into a shopping center
in West Lake Hills. The food is authentic, as chef and owner
Jeff Liu can attest. Many West Lake and Bee Cave families
make Bistro 88 a regular stop. One reason is the sea bass.
Liu prepares it two ways and was hard pressed to choose just
one as the signature dish. The chef says most customers order
the sea bass and love it. One way they love it is miso ginger.
Miso is a Japanese ingredient that according to Webster's
is "made by grinding a mixture of steamed rice, cooked
soybeans, and salt and fermenting it in brine." It lends
a mild salty fermented taste to food. Sake is Japanese rice
wine. Chef Liu explains how it comes together.
"I
marinate with miso, ginger, and sake for over twenty-four
hours. When it's finished marinating, I just put it on the
grill. It's served fork tender. You touch it and it falls
apart. That's the dish that's selling since day one, I cannot
take it off (the menu)," he says.
He
also has a tale about who loves it most.
"That
dish is the favorite of Lady Bird Johnson's family. All the
family visits; they come in and they have to have this. They
come every other Tuesday and they call first and ask if we
have the miso sea bass."
The
other preparation isn't quite as decadent, and doesn't have
a famous name associated with it, but it's no less popular.
Chef
Liu says, "It's Hong Kong style steamed sea bass. I put
Napa cabbage in the bass and put it in the steamer for fifteen
minutes. Then, I shock it with hot oil then put shredded green
onion, ginger, and Chinese fermented black beans on it. Then,
it's topped with soy sake sauce. It's so healthy, and one
of the top sellers."
Both
styles are served with sautéed green beans, topped
with a tomato rose with a dollop of pesto, and asparagus mushroom
risotto. It's a dish that's a rare find in Austin.
Duck
Confit at Chez Nous
Too
bad you can't hear owner Sybil Reinhart's wonderful French
accent when she describes this dish. You'll just have to go
to Chez Nous and listen for yourself. If you go, consider
the fixed price, or prix fixe, meal, which is three courses
for twenty-one dollars and fifty cents. You get to choose
from two or three items in each course and the menu changes
daily. It's really the most popular since it amounts to a
great deal of great food for a moderate price. But the actual
dish that Chez Nous diners love, ask for, and pitch fits about
if it's not on the menu, is the duck confit. Confit is meat
preserved in it's own fat.
"It's
a leg of duck that is first roasted to take off the grease.
Then it's marinated in the grease, then removed from the grease
and sautéed. It makes a very, very tender, delicious
leg of duck and gives it a particular flavor too. We serve
it with a grilled breast of duck. It's all served with roasted
peaches and (a sauce of) rosemary infused peach wine with
a duck-stock reduction," says Reinhart.
Sounds
like French for yummy. Chez Nous has its share of customers
who've been regulars for the twenty-one years it's been open.
Many of them order the duck when they dine. One gentleman
has been a regular for four years, every week. Each time,
he orders the duck confit.
"One
time he came in and it was not on the menu," says Reinhart.
"He was upset and there was quite a bit of drama."
Like
just about everything, this sounds better with a French accent.
Lasagna
at Ciola's
Ciola's
has only been open a year in Austin but the food has been
generations in the making. This isn't authentic Italian food
like you'd find in Italy. It's authentic Italian-American
food like you'd find in the best mom-and-pop Italian restaurants
in New York, Boston, or Philadelphia. Or Virginia Beach, Virginia.
That's where owner Dan Ciola's uncle Dominick opened the first
Ciola's. Both restaurants serve the family favorites in fun,
casual surroundings, complete with Sinatra in the background.
We don't know what's the top item in Virginia but here it's
lasagna, according to chef Ron Brannon. Here's how he describes
it.
"It's
got about ten layers. It starts off with our spicy sausage
that we make in-house. It has a little bit of pepperoni, our
homemade meatballs, a little salami on top of that. Then we
do four different kinds of cheeses in it: pecorino, Romano,
mozzarella, Parmesan, and provolone. It has hardboiled eggs
in between layers. Basically, it's tall, about a mile high.
It takes two people to eat one portion."
Hardboiled
eggs in lasagna? Yes. According to Brannon, it's an old Italian
tradition. It certainly isn't because the dish lacks protein.
The recipe has been passed down from generation to generation
in Ciola's family. But Brannon says when they got the recipe
here they modified it and made it even better.
Network
news anchor Dan Rather agrees and has the lasagna whenever
he's in town visiting his daughter.
Bria's
Pumpkin French Toast at Jean Luc's Bistro
If
a dessert is a signature dish, you know it has to be something
special. And this one is. Not only for it's taste (which is
divine) but for it's story (which is heartwarming).
Not
long after chef Shawn Cirkiel opened Jean Luc's, his wife,
Bria, baked fresh homemade pumpkin bread for the cooks and
staff who had worked so hard getting everything up and running.
While driving to work smelling the bread, Cirkiel had a revelation.
What about pumpkin French toast? Uncertain whether he envisioned
a sweet or savory dish, he shared his thoughts with pastry
chef Philip Seer. Seer immediately seized on the idea and
asked to put it on the dessert menu. He whipped up some white
chocolate ice cream and that night Jean Luc's offered pumpkin
French toast with white chocolate ice cream and caramel sauce.
As if that weren't enough, when Cirkiel's visiting in-laws
dined at the restaurant that night, he had the waiter offer
the new creation as Bria's Pumpkin French Toast.
Cirkiel
says, "They had it and loved it, as did everyone else
that night. My wife, who was not at dinner, heard about what
I had done and was upset, as (the bread) was a gift. She decided
though that she wanted to try it. She came down right before
we closed and we had just sold the last order. She was a little
mad, but understanding."
It
was such a hit that it was added to the fall menu. If you
want to try it, call the restaurant in the fall, once pumpkins
are in season, and ask if they have it. You'll be glad you
did, as it's been featured in Bon Appétit, Southwest
Airlines Magazine, Austin American-Statesman, and the Los
Angeles Times.
"What
is so neat to me," says Cirkiel, "is this dish shows
how we think about food here at Jean Luc's Bistro. My wife
forgave me, of course. But it's funny how her kindness was
turned into a 'winner' on the car ride from home to work."
I
don't know about you, but I'm ready to go eat!
Lynett
Oliver found herself wanting to sign up for all these signature
dishes all over town. You may e-mail Lynett at loliver@goodlifemag.com.
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